The city of Heusden began at a swampy area in the bend of the Maas river. Prior to 1200, a fortress was constructed at this strategic location on the border of Guelders, Holland, and Brabant.
Heusden was more than a fortress, however. In fact, it was considered a valuable prize. The city saw battles between the Counts of Holland, the Counts of Guelders, and the Dukes of Brabant. It was also a major defence post against the Spanish in the Dutch War of Independence and saw the occupation of the French from 1794-1813. Not to mention, the city (barely) survived the occupation of World War II.
German forces blew up city hall (and the Catharijne Church tower) when leaving Heusden on November 4th 1944 as the Allies advanced. This action cost the lives of 134 of the 200 citizens who were taking shelter in the cellar. [clickToTweet tweet=”Few medieval buildings still stand in #Heusden, but Gothic influences linger. #Netherlands” quote=”Few medieval buildings still stand in Heusden, but Gothic influences linger.”]
But it was the plan to demolish most of Heusden and replace it with high-rise apartments and modern features that almost signalled the end of the city. Luckily a group of local citizens protested loud enough and effectively enough to prevent that.
With over 75 million dollars spent on the restoration of Heusden, this is a city not to miss. And here are some of the most important stops to make as you explore this fortress city.
Heusden’s fortifications are one of its most striking features. You notice them on your walk up to the city, and there is something special about walking along the top of them. Small steps leading up from the pathway make this possible. The state-of-the-art defence system, completed in 1613, was the work of Jacob Kemp one of Europe’s leading defence masters. Eight bastions and ramparts buffered the city while underwalls hid the movement of soldiers. Brick tunnels through the ramparts, protected by small triangular islands, allowed defenders to enter and exit the inner city as needed.
Built in the late 12th-century, Heusden’s second castle (the first, located outside the current fortress was burned down in a Viking attack in the 9th-century) was a four-sided stone fortress. It also had an eight-sided tower with four meter thick walls, which was at one point used as a powder magazine. Unfortunately, the tower was struck by lightning in 1680, blowing up the tower, the castle and a forth of the town with it. A small portion of the castle ruins are available to explore.
Until around 1900, this square was home to a lively fish market with salmon and sturgeon as specialities. One of the most striking buildings here is the columned “Visbank” which served as a physical link between the market in front of it and the inner harbour behind it. The building also housed weary town criers who took shelter here at night between their rounds in the 19th century, as well as functioning as a weigh house and fire station.
Believe It or Not
The town harbour of Heusden was filled in in 1904 to make a city park. It wasn’t until 1974 that it was restored again.
In the fish market, facing the Visbank, have a look on the right hand side of the square. You will see a row of seventeenth century buildings with a hotel and restaurant named “In den Verdwaalde Koogel” (In the wayward shot). If you look up towards the upper right of the building’s front you will understand the name. Embedded in the facade is a small cannonball, possibly from the French occupation, that didn’t quite go where it was meant to.
Originally built as part of the Catharijne Church complex around 1592, this white building, orange roofed complex later became home to the military governor. When you enter the gate, pay attention to the small building on the right, which served as a soup kitchen for the poor during the 19th-century. Today the complex serves as the city’s museum where you can find artefacts and historical information about Heusden.
It might seem unusual to include the tourism office as a city highlight, but in this case it is with good reason. The tourism office of Heusden is located in the “new” town hall, built in 1956, which replaced a gothic style building built in the late 16th-century and destroyed in 1944. Inside is a small film about Heusden, impressive replicas of the fortress city, and even some of the carillon bells that were hidden during the war.
Finished visiting Heusden? Don’t forget to explore more of the 12 provinces of the Netherlands.
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